I had gotted a used sb200-100 and had been trying to connect it directly from the cable out HDMI to the HDMI in on the unit, nope, Sling wants me to buy an $80 cable instead just to use component output for HD. Why not just use the HDMI porty geniuses?
Now that I've finished my rant, I would also be interested in knowing the pin-outs for this connector. I have plenty of spare component cables and a normal HDMI cable now collecting dust.
HDMI to HDMI will not work because the connection on the slingbox is not digital. They did that just so we would have to buy there cable. What I did is I have one sb200 with the sling cable and anther that I made a cable for. On ebay I baught a HDMI to component cable and then modified it. What I did was used a tester on the orignal sling cable and found out what pins on the hdmi side go to what component colors and sound. I will try to find the pinouts to help you make your own. It isnt that hard if you have a good sauder iron and a few mintues to spend. Well worth it then spending 80 bucks on there stupid cable.
Allrighty, below is the pintouts for the HDMI to compent cable that you need to make. You have the right idea as the ebay cable I baught was harder to modify then just hacking a cheap hdmi cable and compent wires together. I would recommend just connecting wires for the Video and Audio in, as its quicker to make the cable and its less wires to screw up. If you must need an Video or Audio out you could always buy a Y cable online or from radio shack, or if your up to the task wire those up to the hdmi plug as well. It will work with Video and Audio In if thats what you choose.
Also all of the grounds are common between the output and inputs. To speed up the process you do not have to wire grounds up to all the pins I have shown!!!! I wired all my compenent input grounds to the gold on the outside of the hdmi connecter to make it easier.
As a not R,G,B is for the Red, Green, Blue.
Rai is Red Audio In, Rao is Red Audio Out
Wai is White Audio in, Wao is White Audio Out
The i stands for Input Ex. Ri is Red Input
The o stands for Output Ex. Ro is Red Output
Here is a cable I just made for a friend that got a SB200 for cheap. I cut a HDMI cable in half and used some spare component wires I had laying around.
Continuity Tester - (Most cheap Voltmeters have this setting)
small bobby pin
1. Cut the HDMI cable in half and strip about a inch and half of the insulation from the outside of the cable.
2. When you look at the wires that are now exposed you will see that some of them are by themselves and some of the are paired up and wrapped in a plastic. What you should do is unwrap the plastic of those paired wires. You will find after unwrapping the plastic of the paired wires that there is uninsulated wire that runs with them.
3. Strip off about 1/4" of insulation off all the wires.
4. If you look at the HDMI end you should notice there is small holes with a shiny pin in them just like my diagram above shows. Push the bobby pin in the Ri hole in the HDMI cable. Connect one end of your continuity tester up to the pin and then start using the other end to test the individual wires. You are trying to find the wire that runs to that pin. Once you find that wire connect it to one of your component ends.. One by one you will try to trace down the individual HDMI pin you need to the wire to the component end. I waited to the very end and took one of the hdmi cable grounds and connected that to all of the component wire grounds.
5. I only wired my cable up for inputs because its easier to do. I only needed to find 6 wires on the hdmi cable(R,G,B, L&R audio, and one ground wire).
Attached are photos of my wire before I connected the grounds. The blue and white wire in the middle that are twisted together are a couple of ground wires that I soldered to the individual grounds on the component ends.
Let me know if you need any help!
I was very happy to find this post. I went through and found all the corresponding cables but ran into an issue. On my HDMI cable, as well as the diagrams I found on the internet, my Bi+ pin is an earth line(bare metal wire) and so is my Rai+ pin. So I went ahead and connected the cables hoping for the best. I get no R audio channell and I get a "green picture" meaning I have Red ad Green but no Blue component. I have rewired re tested and done everything I can to eliminate the issue, including not running audio. But I assume that since the Slingbox side wants two different signals from those two pins its an issue, as the two pins are connected to one wire. Anyone else run into this issue? Am I way over thinking this? This is the pic that I found that best showed the HDMI pins and wire colors, for a regular connection. Now I did kill a very cheap HDMI cable for this project. Granted it has worked great for a couple years. Do "higher end" cables have a seperate earth wire for each earth wire pin, possibly that goes inside of each twisted pair? Mine sure does not. Had twisted pairs in "foil" wrap. The foil was not pinned and with the non twisted wires was the one earth ground bare wire.
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Yes I beleive when I wired my cable together a few of the wires were bare with no insulation on them. Typically these would be (earth line) or grounds in the HDMI cable. The reason we should be able to get away with using them is because they should be seperated from the other bare wires, meaning there not in contact with each other inside the cable. If they were in contact with each then the signals would be shorted together not work.
If you have a multimeter handy what I would advise you to do is do a continuity test on the two wires. The continutiy test is the one labeled with a solid triangle with a few lines threw it. When you set your mulimeter on this setting, you should then touch the metal ends of the multimeter leads together. The multimeter should then beap or show you a opposite number then then it did prior to touching them. I beleive the multimeter will show a 0 before touching them then show a 1 when there touching (or maybe I got it in reverse, at work right now). Now put one multimeter probe on the one bare wire, and the other multimeter probe on the other bare wire. If there is no continutiy (no beaps, or no 1 will show) that means the bare wires are not touching anywhere in the cable. If that is the case hook up your component wires like I shown, MAKING SURE THAT WHEN YOU TAPE THEM UP THEY ARE NOT TOUCHING EACH OTHER! It is ok to let similar grounds touch each other, thats what i did in my wire. But the signal carriers are the + wires so you can't let the Rai+ and Bi+ touch.
I have had alot of emails of this working. Maybe the cheap wire hdmi's dont work but mine was a cheap one and worked fine. Just make sure to keep those bare wires apart from each other. Let me know how it goes or if you need more help!